Ulrich Almer (8 May 1849 in
Grindelwald – 4 September 1940) was a Swiss
mountain guide. He made many
premieres in the
Alps, at the beginning with his father
Christian Almer, one of the great guides of the golden age of mountaineering, and was one of the first Swiss guides to visit the
Caucasus.[1]
Ulrich Almer performs about fifteen premieres including those of the
Aiguille de Blaitière and
Aiguille de Triolet. In 1874, on the descent after an attempt at the south face of
Mont Blanc, his roped party fell into a
crevasse on the Brouillard glacier, JAG Marshal and Johann Fischer dying instantly; Ulrich Almer, unconscious but unharmed, manages to get out of the crevasse and join
Courmayeur.[2][3] To make matters worse, thirty-eight years later, in 1912, during a descent of the
Aletschhorn, it was the turn of Andreas Fisher, Johann Fischer's son, and with the same guide, to be the victim of a fall in a crevasse. Ulrich Almer's reputation was definitely tarnished.[4]
1873 - Premiere of the northern tip of the
Aiguille de Blaitière with Thomas Stuart Kennedy, J. A. G. Marshall and Johann Fisher
1874 - Premiere of the
aiguille de Triolet with J. A. G. Marshall and Johann Fisher, on August 26
1874 - Attempt on the south face of
Mont Blanc with J. G. A. Marshal and Johann Fisher, on August 31. They had probably made in passing the first point of the point which will be called later
pic Eccles[6]
1876 - Premiere of the western summit of
Droites, with W.A. Coolidge and Christian Almer, on July 18
1876 - First of the south-eastern ridge of
Täschhorn with James Jackson
1877 -
Pic Coolidge with William Auguste Coolidge and Christian Almer, on July 14
1891 - First crossing of
Meije in a west–east direction from the Grand Pic to the Doigt de Dieu with J.-H. Gibson and Fritz Boss
1883 - First ascent of the northwest ridge of the
Schreckhorn via Andersongrat route[8] with Aloys Pollinger, John Stafford Anderson and G. P. Baker
1884 - First crossing of the
Breithorn with John Stafford Anderson and Aloys Pollinger, on August 16, making in passing the first of the secondary summits of the Eastern Breithorn, the Breithornzwillinge and the
Roccia Nera, considered today in the list of 82 Alpine summits over 4000 meters) [9]
1888 - First ascent of the northern summit of
Ushba (
Caucasus) with John Garford Cockin
1888 - First ascent of
Shkhara with J. Cockin and C. Roth