![]() Jakob Schubert at the
2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Nationality | Austrian | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | Innsbruck, Austria | December 31, 1990||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Occupation | Professional sport climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 176 cm (5 ft 9 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 63 kg (139 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Website | https://www.jakob-schubert.com | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Known for |
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First ascents |
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Medal record
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Updated on August 5, 2021 |
Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three times World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.
Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.[ citation needed]
In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco. [1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six). [2]
In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris. [3]
In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time. [4]
In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.[ citation needed]
Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics [5] where he won Bronze.
Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport, [6] and he followed that up by winning the combined event which qualifies him for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. [7]
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adding to it. (August 2023) |
Discipline [8] | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 26 | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 1 |
Bouldering | 60 | 65 | 19 | 3 | 2 | - | 25 | 23 | 10 | 9 | ||
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 43 | 59 | - | - | - | - | 59 |
Combined | - | - | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 | - | 4 | 2 | 6 | 1 |
Youth [9]
Discipline | 2004 Youth B |
2005 Youth B |
2006 Youth A |
2007 Youth A |
2008 Juniors |
2009 Juniors |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 33 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
Adult [9]
Discipline | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 26 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 2 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 1 |
Bouldering | - | - | - | - | - | 10 | 2 | 27 | 12 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | - | 110 | 59 | - | - |
Combined | - | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | - | 1 |
Discipline [9] | 2008 | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 6 | 3 | 7 | 6 | 3 |
Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 4 | - |
Speed | - | - | 35 | 27 | 31 |
Season [9] | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2004 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
2005 | Youth B | 1 | 1 | ||
2006 | Youth A | 3 | 1 | 1 | 5 |
Total | 3 | 1 | 3 | 7 |
Season [9] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
2009 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2010 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
2011 | 7 | 1 | 1 | 9 |
2012 | 1 | 3 | 1 | 5 |
2013 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
2014 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 5 |
2015 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
2017 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
2018 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
2020 | 1 | 1 | ||
2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
2023 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
Total | 20 | 17 | 16 | 53 |
Season [9] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2011 | 1 | 1 | ||
2012 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2013 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
2018 | 1 | 1 | ||
2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2021 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 3 | 2 | 5 | 10 |
9c (5.15d):
9b+ (5.15c):
9b (5.15b):
9a+ (5.15a)
9a (5.14d):
8c (5.14b):